An evening at Oncore by Clare Smyth: Why Sydney's most expensive restaurant has the most underrated bar

Twenty-six floors above the harbour.

* Friday Finds is coming to you next week as I settle into my new job!

I spent last Saturday night nestled in a sumptuous chair in the bar at Oncore by Clare Smyth, and honestly, I’m convinced it’s Sydney's best-kept secret. While Oncore is well-established as one of the finest dining experiences in Sydney, the bar is totally underrated and might just be the smartest way to experience Smyth's world without breaking the bank.

There's something utterly magical about sipping cocktails twenty-six floors above Barangaroo while Sydney Harbour sparkles beneath you. The views alone are worth the elevator ride, but when you factor in Clare Smyth's sublime cocktails alongside her genius bar snacks, you've got yourself an evening that feels both indulgent and surprisingly accessible. The bar setting lets you sample smaller versions of Smyth's signature dishes – the ones that have earned her three Michelin stars in London and three chef hats here in Sydney.

This whole bar snacks movement is exactly where Sydney dining is at right now. There's been this brilliant plethora of fine dining venues opening up their bars to give punters a taste of what's on offer without the full commitment of a seven-course degustation. (Head over here to read about my visit to The Gidley and its legendary cheeseburger.)

At Oncore, Smyth's approach to bar dining is nothing short of brilliant. You can dive into her famous Potato and Roe with seaweed beurre blanc, herring and trout roe – the dish that pays homage to her Northern Irish farming childhood and has become her signature calling card. We couldn't resist the 'CFC' Core fried chicken crowned with Sturia caviar supplement – quite possibly Sydney's poshest take on KFC, and absolutely as indulgent as it sounds. The Jerusalem artichoke with Bay of Fires aged cheddar and verjus was earthy and sophisticated, while the 'Core apple' with toffee and LOBO cider brandy perfectly showcased Smyth's playful yet precise approach to dessert.

Crazy beautiful: CFC core fried chicken with caviar and the kingfish

But the real showstopper? The Core-teser, Smyth's clever riff on Maltesers that layers chocolate, malt and hazelnut into something that's both nostalgic and completely elevated. It's exactly the kind of dish that demonstrates why Clare Smyth is considered one of the world's leading chefs. She can take something as humble as a childhood sweet and transform it into edible art.

The Core-teaser

Now, about those cocktails: the Wimbledon Fizz with Pimm’s is fresh, fizzy and unapologetically fun. But the Apple 3 with Archie Rose single malt and LOBO apple brandy? Pure theatre. A luminous, giant green resin apple arrives at your table, and when you lift the lid, wisps of cinnamon-scented smoke curl upward like something straight out of a fairy tale. Suddenly the bar transforms into an enchanted orchard at dusk, and you haven't even taken your first sip yet.

Cool and creative cockails: Apple 3 and Wimbledon Fizz

In a city where dining out has become increasingly expensive, this trend toward exceptional bar menus with exceptional snacks feels like exactly what Sydney needs. It's allowing more people to experience world-class cooking in a relaxed setting, and frankly, it's often more fun than the full fine dining experience.

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